Molly Bloom knows style

October 27th, 2008

Costume Institute: Givenchy

Penned by molly in Luxury, Vintage

This textured, beaded black-on-black couture cocktail dress (1961) by the House of Givenchy is divine. It’s insanely glamorous. Black-on-black fabrics in simple silhouettes are a personal favorite of mine and this one is pure inspiration.

Givenchy made some of the most iconic fashions of the last century, including those worn by Jackie Kennedy at JFK’s funeral. Also: Audrey Hepburn as Holly Golightly in Breakfast At Tiffany’s. In the opening of Paris When It Sizzles (1964), “Miss Hepburn’s Wardrobe and Perfume” is credited to Hubert de Givenchy. You know you’ve hit the big-time when you get a perfume credit in a movie.

There’s a pronunciation of Givenchy here. This still from Paris When It Sizzles is worth a view as is the movie clip. Earlier this year in Paris I paused outside the Givenchy headquarters to soak in the good ju-ju.

October 15th, 2008

Costume Institute: The YSL Days At Dior

Penned by molly in Luxury, Vintage

Cocktail Dress, fall/winter 1959–1960
House of Dior (French, founded 1947), Design House; Yves Saint Laurent (French, born Algeria, 1936), Designer

This is a garment that exemplifies the genius of Yves Saint Laurent. This dress is so now, so modern. The color is delicious, the shape feels fresh, the belt is au currant. It is so Gossip Girl. The dress is almost 50 years old.

In 1958, Saint Laurent found himself at the age of 21 the head designer of the House of Dior when Christian Dior died unexpectedly. Saint Laurent’s first collection for the label is credited with saving the couture house from going under.

October 13th, 2008

Costume Institute: André Courrèges

Penned by molly in Luxury, Vintage

André Courrèges, jumper (1965). Wool with metallic trim.

This very mod jumper has a horseshoe neckline and A-line skirt. Adorable. Imagine Marianne Faithfull wearing it with ankle boots astride a Vespa scooter. Yes, yes you can.

October 7th, 2008

Costume Collection Goes Online

Penned by molly in Costume Closet, Vintage

Oooooooh! Huge news for fashion nerds, costume junkies and historical re-enactors:

The Metropolitan Museum of Art has added its Costume Institute collection to the online catalog. Everything from couture to little-known designers to antique shoe buckles is now online. Suddenly my beloved coffee table books seem outdated. The highlights section is a great place to start unless you have some keywords for searching. Imagine the time I’m going to spend on here. My head is spinning.

Pictured above is a raincoat by American sportswear designer Claire McCardell (1948).

May 20th, 2008

Mile-High Fashion

Penned by molly in Third Sin, Travel, Vintage

Braniff Airlines had the best stewardess uniforms. This was back when flight attendants were in the same league as models and faced a weekly weigh-in by their employer. Many of the uniforms were worn with bloomers because of the micro-mini skirts — I imagine there were a lot of napkins dropped in the aisle if you get my drift. Designers included Emilio Pucci (he of the swirly psychedelic mega-prints) and Halston (he of the sexy-chic and the column dresses and the disco).

Looking for some object lust? Here’s an eBay auction lot featuring 90 pieces from Braniff Airlines uniforms designed by Pucci & Halston. The listing says that the collection was amassed by a 20-year Braniff employee. It includes the space helmet! I’ve never wanted anything that cost $250,000. Except maybe a check for $250,000.

Jezebel created a quiz to match the stewardess uniform to the airline from the photos of a private collector. There’s not a Braniff in the bunch.

March 5th, 2007

Vintage Style: The Modern Girdle

Penned by molly in Vintage

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Girdles are strange contraptions. The ones at the vintage stores are downright menacing, with their straps and elastics and all-rubber cinchers. Support garments went out of vogue when styles changed and sportswear came to the forefront. But new technology has brought them back. Today’s undergarments are designed to smooth lines, tighten jiggles and make you more comfortable in your clothes. And they look nothing like that picture above.

The hurdle for most women is the idea of buying a support garment. There is no shame, ladies, in buying shapewear (unless you are trying to fit into clothes that are too small and then for shame, for shame). Buying a smoother isn’t admitting defeat. A dancer friend who has a terrific figure wears them. Recently someone said they’re too self-conscious to wear such items because their boyfriend might see it. If you’re super-worried, ditch it in the bathroom when you get home. Undress with the lights off. My husband has no idea (until now) that I wear them because they don’t show through my clothes and I’m crafty.

One line that is blowing up right now is called Spanx. They have revolutionized this market with wearable and comfortable shapewear. Their garments are seamless and made from compression yarns. One of their best-sellers smooths the waist, back and bottom and attaches to your bra. Genius. Spanx footfless tights and pants are popular for holding in the thighs and smoothing at the hips and derriere. They even sell maternity sizes.

Most women have visible lines and indentations on their blouses caused by bras. There are seamless cups and such to create smooth lines up front, but even a well-sized bra can create bulges along the back. Solution: a camisole or other garment that covers from the bra line to the waist line.

You can do a lot better than that tiny thong for hiding panty lines. Thongs are basically crotch covers and provide zero support. I wish so many women didn’t wear the wrong thong — when you can see the shape of a thong through your dress or sticking out the top of your jeans, you’re wearing the wrong drawers. One great way to avoid visible panty lines are to wear boy shorts or even longer footless tights. Some women are addicted to capri-length footless tights.

Wearing a shaper can also make clothes easier to wear. Scratchy waistbands or clothes that ride up are solved. Clothes drape better over smooth surfaces. Fashion’s fine knits and jersey dresses are a continuing trend through spring and both are body-conscious looks. Just try one. Trust me.

March 1st, 2007

Vintage Style: Tretorns

Penned by molly in Shoes, Vintage

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My favorite all-time sneakers are Tretorn Nylites. I have owned at least a dozen pairs since the sixth grade when a visiting family friend showed off hers. She lived in a different world as an East Coast preppy with the perfect no-flyaways bob. I was living in Indiana with my long frizzy hair plated into two braids. I felt unsophisticated in my matching shorts set that featured an all-goose rock band (although there are probably some Vice magazine hipsters who would kill for my ensemble these days). I had to have the shoes. There was something about them. Call it an early style awakening.

Tretorns were the first luxury sports shoe. Professional tennis players wore them in the 1960s and ’70s, hence their prep school appeal. They are cushy and feel great on my feet. Tretorns went off the market about a decade or so ago. The ’90s weren’t kind to white shoes or preppy looks. About six years ago I was buying a lot of vintage preppy stuff. I decided to bring back Tretorns. I went on the hunt and finally tracked down a pair in New Jersey. I wore them out dancing one afternoon at 111 Minna and every East Coaster of a certain age talked to me about them.

Now that everything old is new again the shoes are back in production. Tretorns also work for guys who are looking for that classic deep preppy summer look. They don’t work with dark denim or tight pants and they look best bare-legged, sans socks. They are stunning with the right casual skirt or even preppy shorts. I have a pair of ancient khakis that are rugged and snipped off at the bottom for clam digger length that are perfect for Tretorns. Just about anything from Lilly Pulitzer looks great with Nylites. I call the look Haute Preppy. Here’s to spring!