Molly Bloom knows style

Runway looks for men rarely translate directly to street looks but certain details do influence upcoming trends. One thing I’m hoping does trickles down from Jil Sander’s Fall ‘09 collection: subtly patterned suiting and overcoat fabrics. Pictured above, the wavy lines are very subtle against the pinstriped heathered material.

The lapels are wider and that’s a change from what we’ve been seeing. The length of the coat is awkward, possibly because of the slightly nipped-in waist, a detail that’s carried through much of the collection to various extremes.

Maybe these geode-like, earthy color striations could replace the all-over pattern hoodies that have been done and overdone for a few years.

This special edition of Guy Friday comes at you on Monday. Special shout-out to dapper dresser Jackson West, who’s right — I should write more Guy Friday posts.

Spring 2009 was not the strongest season. Things got crazy in a way that menswear doesn’t wear well. I’m not going to say much about Fendi’s ridiculous wedge shoes — they write the jokes themselves.

Bottega Veneta, a brand I will wear when I become a rich lady, had a strong showing. As pictured above, the proportion of the pant leg looks great. It’s a full leg but it’s not flared and even translates to more traditional looks. And the one-color/multiple-patterns thing is working. I’m not sure what’s going on with the blazer-shirt thing; looks as though the sleeves are sheer, exposing the short sleeve of the top worn underneath. I imagine the sheer sleeves won’t translate to ready-to-wear but I’d like to see the blazer-shirt take off. Bottega Veneta makes legendary leather goods as well, hence the upscale cases and man-bags toted on the runway.

Dries Van Noten, Prada… Labels I usually love, showing ugly things: sandals with socks (Dries Van Noten), ballet necklines and superfluous halter straps (Prada).

Vivienne Westwood really turned it out with her collection. Not every guy could pull off this piped-in-white jacket but it’s fantastic. I’m not a fan of knit polo/golf-style shirts with suits because it’s a slippery slope to unacceptable pairings, however this look makes it work.

What you’ll be wearing next year on vacation. If you’re really really rich. (image via Getty Images)

Zip zip zip.

Oh, yes. Indeed. Best in show. Monique Lhuillier’s Fall ‘08 show is the best of the bunch. This is some high fashion. It sparkles where it should, demures when it should and stays pretty. I would consider changing my hair color so I could wear those cool greys and yellows. The beading work (shown above) is rich rich rich. Like jewelry. This dress looks to be made of the exact liquid-copper silk fabric I used for my bias couture gown. And the blacked-out eye makeup reminds me of a certain clown. Adore.

Halston’s back. The label has been trotted out once again with a new designer. Yesterday the collection showed in New York. Today three pieces are for sale online: Two shirt dresses and a very Jerry Hall-esque jersey dress. Take a peak. Selling clothes straight off the runway is unprecedented — usually runway shows give editors and buyers the first peak at what may or may not be made, based on the orders for garments. Production starts after the orders are placed, weeks or months after the shows. Selling the clothes online is a brilliant PR coup for the fledgling Halston.

To answer the eternal question about time travel and where and when to go back, wearing Halston at Studio 54 is high on my list.

Last week Chanel showed the Métiers d’Art collection, a showcase for the Parisian artisans who add the glitz to the garments — beaders, embroiderers, milliners and so on. In the past few years Chanel has acquired many of the ateliers and started a special line to highlight their handiwork. Take a look.

Ooooh, I wish this collection was comprised entirely of headdresses. These toppers remind me of Isabella Blow, the stylist/muse/tastemaker who died earlier this year and was known for her hats. Blow literally made McQueen’s career, buying his entire student collection and using her connections to launch him into fashion’s highest ranks.

Surely her life and death feature prominently into McQueen’s Spring ‘08 line. The one pictured above with the butterflies taking flight seems especially poignant.

Jil Sander’s Spring ‘08 line debuts at Milan Fashion Week. Lovely, lovely clothes.

There were whispers that Marc Jacobs’ Spring 2008 runway show was very Grey Gardens. I see some madness in pairing these pieces together but I see no Big or Little Edie. For fans of the documentary/musical, I present Jezebel’s highlarious take on the Marc Jacobs show.