Molly Bloom knows style

It’s almost Christmas and you know what that means? It’s almost time for the resort collections. Woo-hoo!

(A girl can dream, can’t she?)

It’s all in the construction.

The Wall Street Journal examines couture and mass-market clothes in this short online video. Obviously the quality of the fabric is an issue. The way a sleeve is set can be a tip-off as well as the quality of the buttonholes.
(via FashionAddict)

PS to Vera Wang: I call bullshit on shoddy construction being a design element.

*Third Sin is a category for clothes that I cannot live without but cannot afford.

Behold, the Prada Chevron-Knit Jacket. It is very me. The sleeves are minimal brilliance, the zipper is tough and the black-on-black-ness of the material is more me than me. This beautiful, streamlined wonder works because it’s thoughtfully constructed, beautifully cut and made from the best of the best materials. A down-market version would look like a jacked-up sweatshirt or deflated down coat. This is one of those items that make people understand the quality of true luxury goods.

Ooooooh yes.
(via fashionista)

I’ve written about bras in the past (here and here). Recently a friend quoted me back to me: “Molly Bloom says there is a bra for every outfit, and this one isn’t it.” Bras have come up in conversation twice since then. People have questions about the bras. So for you dear readers, I pass on what I know about bras.

My favorite lingerie store in San Francisco is Alla Prima (they have two locations). They are masters at fitting bras. They’ll measure you and bring you different kinds of cup styles (and most women would benefit from a cup change). Alla Prima is a great place to start your new collection of correctly sized garments; you’ll pay a little more but it will be perfect, and you’ll wear it every day. Look for bargains in favorite brands online once you’ve set your size and style.

A few things about bras:

- The number on your bra is the circumference of your ribcage.
- The letter (or cup size) represents the number of inches fuller your breasts are than your ribcage. Measure the fullest part of your bust for this. If your ribcage measures 32 and your bust is 35, you’re a 32 C.
- Just because it fastens doesn’t mean it fits.
- The center part of your bra between the cups should be flat against your chest.
- Your boobs should not jiggle when you walk. Sorry, guys.
- Get measured every year.
- Bra sizes often change with weight loss or gain. Don’t just go up or down a band size; you may need a different cup size as well.
- Learn which straps, cup style, fabric, etc. are most comfortable and look for more bras with those features.
- Don’t wear a sports bra as an everyday bra. It mushes your boobs into a funny loaf shape and the fabric is usually too heavy to be inconspicuous under nice tops.
- You need to spend some money on your bras. Victoria’s secret is actually that her bras are poorly made and uncomfortable.
- Don’t put them in the dryer. The elasticity will go and the wires will poke through and then you’re just screwed. Hand-washed bras will last the longest.

Jean Paul Gaultier showed his Fall 2007 Couture in Paris today. He’s best known for designing Madonna’s conical brassieres circa 1990 but has been cranking out couture for decades.

Oh-seven couture? Love it. Especially love the lace applied to the faces of some models. And I love that their hair is made to look like a crown. I’ve been seeing a lot of crowns lately, what with the Vivienne Westwood show and all. I love-love the coat pictured above. I’ve been kicking around an idea for a regal evening coat for some years. I was given an antique kimono at Burning Man a few back. I want to take some of the embroidered designs and appliqué them on a sturdy cloak. I’ve recently been thinking about the coat and this couture number is speaking to me. Stay tuned.

The New York Times has a photo series called “The Best Hands In The World.” It features the work rooms of major fashion houses as they prepare garments for the couture shows. There are some familiar sights for me: stay-stitching that needs to be removed, patterns drafted onto silk organza, hand-gathered sewing to create a ruffle.

And I love the Dior sewers in their white smocks.

John Galliano’s latest couture collection for Christian Dior is exactly what couture should be. It has drama and color and outsize proportions. It is serious but knows how to tell a good joke. And he brought back the true supermodels, including Linda Evangelista, the fiercest of the fierce walkers.

Ooooh la la.

Not sure if I’m off my rocker but I like this cashmere wrap, especially the high neckline in back. Her shoes, hair and makeup are fantastic and I’m sure that adds to the appeal of the overall look. You’d want to wear something nice but not too sleek with it. It’s a fine line between wrap and blanket.

Resort wear is the umbrella drink of the fashion world. It should be fun, colorful and a tad sweet. You wouldn’t order a Blue Hawaiian in a Manhattan wine bar. Nor should you wear grays, dark colors or muted prints in Tahiti.

Men’s resort wear is best when cut in classic styles from whimsical, preppy and occasionally loud fabric. The classic lines are important as they keep you from looking like a Day-Glo clad Daytona Beach tourist. The color is important because it keeps you from looking stodgy.

I love the wacky, bright preppy summer clothes of the 1970s. Think vintage Lilly Pulitzer. Or new Lilly Pulitzer. I also like to see a man in seersucker or madras patchworck pants.

I’m not a big fan of shorts. But since most men don’t have the option of wearing a skirt or dress, I’ll give a pass. Beach vacations are exactly where you should be wearing shorts. Pack at least one nice pair. You’ll have room for them in your suitcase once you throw away those jeans shorts, because there is never a time when jean shorts are right. I am an absolute believer that it is possible to wear the right shorts with a shirt and tie, soft loafers sans socks. Really. Meow.

Try on shorts of different lengths. That lingering trend from the 1990s of wearing really long shorts makes most men look as if they have extremely long torsos and short midget legs. This goes for swim trunks as well, the too-long swim suit being the least sexy thing I personally can think of seeing on a toned body. Boo.

Don’t rely too heavily on T-shirts. Boring. Instead pack a few light-colored dress shirts to pair with shorts. This is an easy look for even the most fashion illiterate. Roll the sleeves up to the elbows or wear them unbuttoned with swim trunks.

A lot of men wear golf shirts for dressier resort occasions. I don’t like golf shirts but I recognize their place in the canon of men’s fashion, so I won’t say any more. Except to say that horizontal stripes, especially on a knit fabric, will make you look chubby.

Be sure to grab a tropical tie. And some nice sunglasses. And a summery, lightweight belt.

Ooooh, one last thing: I suggest a banana daiquiri.