Molly Bloom knows style

In Paris:
The New York Times reports from the Dior workrooms the day before the couture shows. The slide show makes elegant images of unfinished business.

In San Francisco:
Conservationists at the Legion of Honor cleaned a William Morris tapestry that dates back to 1887. It’s for an upcoming show called The Cult of Beauty: The Victorian Avant-Garde 1860–1900 and it opens Feb. 18. See you there.

Runway looks for men rarely translate directly to street looks but certain details do influence upcoming trends. One thing I’m hoping does trickles down from Jil Sander’s Fall ‘09 collection: subtly patterned suiting and overcoat fabrics. Pictured above, the wavy lines are very subtle against the pinstriped heathered material.

The lapels are wider and that’s a change from what we’ve been seeing. The length of the coat is awkward, possibly because of the slightly nipped-in waist, a detail that’s carried through much of the collection to various extremes.

Maybe these geode-like, earthy color striations could replace the all-over pattern hoodies that have been done and overdone for a few years.

This textured, beaded black-on-black couture cocktail dress (1961) by the House of Givenchy is divine. It’s insanely glamorous. Black-on-black fabrics in simple silhouettes are a personal favorite of mine and this one is pure inspiration.

Givenchy made some of the most iconic fashions of the last century, including those worn by Jackie Kennedy at JFK’s funeral. Also: Audrey Hepburn as Holly Golightly in Breakfast At Tiffany’s. In the opening of Paris When It Sizzles (1964), “Miss Hepburn’s Wardrobe and Perfume” is credited to Hubert de Givenchy. You know you’ve hit the big-time when you get a perfume credit in a movie.

There’s a pronunciation of Givenchy here. This still from Paris When It Sizzles is worth a view as is the movie clip. Earlier this year in Paris I paused outside the Givenchy headquarters to soak in the good ju-ju.

Cocktail Dress, fall/winter 1959–1960
House of Dior (French, founded 1947), Design House; Yves Saint Laurent (French, born Algeria, 1936), Designer

This is a garment that exemplifies the genius of Yves Saint Laurent. This dress is so now, so modern. The color is delicious, the shape feels fresh, the belt is au currant. It is so Gossip Girl. The dress is almost 50 years old.

In 1958, Saint Laurent found himself at the age of 21 the head designer of the House of Dior when Christian Dior died unexpectedly. Saint Laurent’s first collection for the label is credited with saving the couture house from going under.

I’m swooning for this roomy tote. It’s $398, which ain’t so bad for a super nice bag. I love the diamond-shaped details. There’s a smaller clutch in this style that’s delicious in black.

André Courrèges, jumper (1965). Wool with metallic trim.

This very mod jumper has a horseshoe neckline and A-line skirt. Adorable. Imagine Marianne Faithfull wearing it with ankle boots astride a Vespa scooter. Yes, yes you can.

I finished my couture gown and wore it to a party Saturday night. What fun! The gown was a project from Susan Khalje’s couture school last year, which is basically a boot camp for gown-making.

At the end of the week my gown wasn’t finished. While I finished my regular school work it hung in my closet. I’d sigh when I saw its copper shimmer drape down to a puddle at the floor, telling myself someday, someday. What I needed was impetus to get it done.

Then an invitation to a black-tie event arrived and work on the gown resumed. Picking it up again, I could see how my sewing techniques were more ingrained. I’m still thrilled with the color choice and am glad I went with the Grecian (one-shoulder) neckline.

Here’s another view of the dress, worn with my grandmother’s gold wrap.

photos by Ted

For the curious, here’s a look at my fashion line. It’s called First Resort. I hope you like it.

Zip zip zip.

Oh, yes. Indeed. Best in show. Monique Lhuillier’s Fall ‘08 show is the best of the bunch. This is some high fashion. It sparkles where it should, demures when it should and stays pretty. I would consider changing my hair color so I could wear those cool greys and yellows. The beading work (shown above) is rich rich rich. Like jewelry. This dress looks to be made of the exact liquid-copper silk fabric I used for my bias couture gown. And the blacked-out eye makeup reminds me of a certain clown. Adore.