Molly Bloom knows style

The internet business is killing men’s style in this town. It’s startup- and event-swag overload in these parts. From one faded logo to the next, dudes do not need any more free T-shirts.

This T-shirt plague is blotting out some really creative guys and dulling them down. Want to stand out in the field? Wear something that didn’t get handed out to 200 people in that same field. A wise man sitting on my couch earlier tonight said, “A Firefox T-shirt? Really?” That made me laugh.

I’m not the only one who’s concerned about the state of the city. Ted overheard someone Twitter that she hopes Mad Men will influence the fashions of the tech crowd. You can take any page from that book and look good, gentlemen.

I understand that you want to support your friends’ endeavors or show your support of BarCamp. That’s cool. It’s just when it’s every day, when it’s all you got, when your wardrobe consists of handouts, that concerns me. I feel the same about guys who only wear rock shirts, but that’s less of an industry-wide problem and more of a stoner/refuse-to-grow-up sort of thing.

Quick. Before you forget how. Shop. Shirts with collars. They’ll get you laid.

__
Bonus SF shopping quickie: Therapy on Valencia Street has a small, well-curated selection of hip casual menswear. Ted Baker (80 Grant Ave. near Union Square in San Francisco) sells delicious collared shirts that will run you $100ish (what?! don’t give me that — you can so afford it, you haven’t spent money on clothes all year). And stay away from H&M if you’re an infrequent shopper. Their stuff isn’t made to last the hundreds of wash cycles you’re going to put a shirt through.

It’s time to buy boots. Maybe you heard that already. Perhaps you were already thinking about getting something nice to replace that beat-down pair you’re still wearing. Maybe you didn’t know where to look. Here are some ideas.

I would lick these boots, provided they hadn’t been worn: Perforated leather Prada boots are hot. If you work in tech and aren’t in debt or facing a lien you can probably afford them.

My favorite men’s boots aren’t all that tall — today’s boots have more of an above-the ankle style. One exception is the O-ring motorcycle boot, a classic I love in brown (pictured above) or black. In my experience these take some breaking in but last for years. Camper boots are a happening riff on that style.

Better boots have cooler details. Like these boots, which you could try on at Gimme Shoes Hayes or Fillmore locations.

Rules for boots: They may need to be broken in but they have to fit — boots don’t have the laces that help other footwear work. Insoles are sometimes helpful but you have to account for that when purchasing.

And your socks? It might be time to buy replacements. Smart Wool is now making high-performance everyday (read: awesome shoe appropriate) socks for their Dress and Metro lines. These socks are super-comfy, look good and keep feet/shoes from stinking, plus they don’t fade. Everyone wins.

I’ve written previously about my favorite indie SF shoe stores. I also love me a Union Square department store — Saks, Neiman’s and the new Barney’s all have worthwhile shoe shopping (even if it’s just window shopping).

A man in a well-made white shirt is hot. Tux-front, French cuffs, maybe rolled up to the elbow: hot. Any sort of stain: not hot.

To prevent yellowing at the underarms and ring around the collar, here’s a tip: Sprinkle a dash of baby powder on the area (inside and outside) and steam with an iron. This will take 3-5 seconds. Shake off excess powder. It will help keep the stains from setting.

Professional cleaners will press the shirt as well as clean it, usually for just a couple of bucks.

This is cool: fashion brand Band Of Outsiders shows their men’s clothes online in blog format. There are store locations listed as well.

Time Magazine created a photo essay about the 35th president’s style and the impact he had on American fashion. Meow.

French brand agnès b. homme showed some cool, wearable looks earlier this week. A lot of dudes ask “Where should I shop? I have the money to spend, I just don’t see anything I like or know where to go.” If you have a bit of money to spend (and if you work in the tech industry you do, hint hint) there are agnès b. shops in SF, LA and NYC that carry the homme line. In my experience the sizing can run a bit small and it’s best to try on before buying. agnès b. homme sells durable and fashion-forward staples such as crisp white shirts, nice knits and black pants. Don’t sleep on some of their more trendy or colorful items — you may find a soon-to-be old favorite.

It’s hard for most dudes to identify with men’s runway. But there are things you will see trickle down as ready-to-wear trends. And I’m not talking about the golf shirts.

Givenchy showed highwater pants with significant creases pressed into the legs — my money’s on this trouser trend. Another look was full through the thigh and knee to a tighter hem. The silhouette is similar to pegged jeans (back in the regrettable 1980s, there was a time when you rolled up your jeans in such a way that they cut off the circulation to your feet and made your legs resemble balloons).

Prada’s spring collection was mostly black. The cuts and fabrics said spring, the colors said it-could-snow-any-minute-now. San Francisco and New York are all-black towns, but this collection offers seasonally appropriate pieces for our lazy urban palette.

There’s a renaissance of sorts going on in sportswear. Classic brands have returned with their lean, mid-century tennis and leisure shirts. Bring it on, I say. Get served.

Old school brands are back in a big way. Long-dormant Penguin has returned with their close-cut sport shirts (pictured above). My dad wore these when I was a kid and Ted has one now. These aren’t too fussy and come in great colors.

Lacoste, which makes the Izod imprint, has been slimming down their clothes and modernizing their silhouette to great results. They have a new location off Union Square in San Francisco if you’re the sort who likes to try on clothes.

Fred Perry (not to be confused with Fred Berry) also makes a fine shirt. This U.K. brand honors the English tennis champion. Fred Perry has had many cycles in Brit youth subcultures and their time has come for the U.S. market.

Retro leisure shirts are plentiful on eBay, vintage stores and in off-brands as well. What’s important is a lean cut — not blousy or long. Because these are sport shirts, check for sweat stains or excessive wear. If you don’t like to wear a dead man’s clothes, retailers are copying these looks. Choose solids over stripes and consider pairing the shirt with a simple, retro short or pant. Think country club and plaid, vodka tonics and tennis whites. These shirts are casual and can’t stand in for a dress shirt under a sportcoat. If you must pair them with jeans do so with a classic indigo wash and not some trendy, muddy or whiskery finish.

Style note: Slim men can tuck these shirts in and wear a suitable belt. Those with bellies shouldn’t necessarily shy away form these lean shirts. They can be slimming. Try wearing them out with flat-front pants.

Flipping through GQ at the doctor’s office the other day I came across some good advice. By now you know that I believe in quality more than quantity when it comes to dressing. I also believe in the appropriateness of clothes. The advice: ditch the athletic shades when you’re off the field/trail/slopes. They look out of place with dressy clothes — especially a suit and tie or tuxedo. It’s kind of Guido to wear the fancy sports shades with the suit. I know you know what I mean.

If you rarely dress up (which is a shame) you can buy less expensive shades for those times. I wrote more about sunglasses last fall.

What will you be wearing under your heavy coat when it’s time to peel off the layers?

Shirts are lightening up for spring — lighter fabrics and lighter colors signal an end to winter while decorative touches celebrate the season.

Translating from women’s wear are lighter fabrics and embellishments. Embroidered shirts are set to replace the striped trend that’s been happening the past several years. Somehow the embroidery makes these shirts more casual than the striped variety, so unless you work in a hipster den these shirts aren’t office-casual. Besides, no need to stink up your cool shirt at work; keep it fresh for evening outings and jeans.

Short-sleeve shirts are big for spring. I love the eastery colors and nature prints, even florals. Some of the best shirts are solids. The crisp and lean cuts play the starring role. Some au currant touches such as snaps, epaulettes and pocket design punch up otherwise simple shirts (see the divided breast pocket and hidden button placket on the Diesel shirt pictured above).

Fit is key to spring’s shirts. Too small and the buttons are bulging and shoulder movement is strained. Too big and they loose their now-ness. Be sure the shoulder seam hits just at the edge of the shoulder, before it turns into arm. Lowered shoulder seams are for bad bowling shirts. Misplaced shoulder seams can also make you look round-shouldered — so not hot.

For men’s wear, slim on top requires slim on bottom. Pants that bow out at the knees clash with trim tops. Look for flat-front, straight-legged pants and trousers.