Molly Bloom knows style

The Times ran an interesting profile about menswear designer Michael Bastian. The article is a good snapshot of what is going on in the fashion world right now. The designer can’t afford his own clothes.

But the clothes are good. They are classics of the upscale-casual genre, but they are classics with a twist — “the right twist” as the article says. These are high-quality, big-ticket items produced in Italy by skilled workers. That may have to end, as Bastian hopes to lower his prices. “Right now, it hurts a little too much,” Bastian said. “It should hurt a little, but it shouldn’t kill ’em. That’s the law of designer clothes.”

Really, it’s a good piece. It touches on fashion and style and the economy and New York. You should read it.

Runway looks for men rarely translate directly to street looks but certain details do influence upcoming trends. One thing I’m hoping does trickles down from Jil Sander’s Fall ‘09 collection: subtly patterned suiting and overcoat fabrics. Pictured above, the wavy lines are very subtle against the pinstriped heathered material.

The lapels are wider and that’s a change from what we’ve been seeing. The length of the coat is awkward, possibly because of the slightly nipped-in waist, a detail that’s carried through much of the collection to various extremes.

Maybe these geode-like, earthy color striations could replace the all-over pattern hoodies that have been done and overdone for a few years.

This gadget sells itself, really. I love the military-inspired bandolier-esque one-shoulder style. If you’re not a beer drinker you could fill it with beer for your friends. Or Diet Coke or kombucha, whatever. With a little decoration this would make a fitting addition to any faux-military/spaceman costume. Only $15!

(via BrightSeeker)

bespoke - A custom-made garment; contemporary usage most often refers to a custom-made suit.

When was the last time you bought a tie? You need a new one. Women like men in ties and we notice how often you wear which ones. I’m just saying.

These printed ties from Cyberoptix Ties (pictured above) are fantastic. The designs are smart — get one for the DJ or hypochondriac in your life. There’s a group discount if you want to trick out your wedding party with, say, the meatgrinder ties. There’s even a tie for Scott Beale. Only $30!

This dotted Brioni tie is classic and looks expensive without being too outrageously priced for a luxury item. Monaco, Montana — you could get laid anywhere in the world with a tie like this. Someday soon, when I make a pile of money, I am going to buy Ted a Brioni suit. James Bond wears Brioni suits. Hot.

Some other ideas: Geoffrey Beene makes kicky ties. This black on black Emporio Armani tie would look sexy with a black suit.

Tie styles come and go. Most men opt for the more classic narrow to medium shape. Skinny ties are still in vogue for younger dudes but you need to have the complete skinny-tie look: trim shirt and pants, and if you wear a jacket it better be slim and almost too small. Since the 1970s wide ties have been the provenance of clowns but I say wear what you dig.

One last thing: no sheer shirts with ties, OK? If you put on a dress shirt and you can see the outline of the outline of your torso, your undershirt or chest hair, it’s too thin. Thanks.

This special edition of Guy Friday comes at you on Monday. Special shout-out to dapper dresser Jackson West, who’s right — I should write more Guy Friday posts.

Spring 2009 was not the strongest season. Things got crazy in a way that menswear doesn’t wear well. I’m not going to say much about Fendi’s ridiculous wedge shoes — they write the jokes themselves.

Bottega Veneta, a brand I will wear when I become a rich lady, had a strong showing. As pictured above, the proportion of the pant leg looks great. It’s a full leg but it’s not flared and even translates to more traditional looks. And the one-color/multiple-patterns thing is working. I’m not sure what’s going on with the blazer-shirt thing; looks as though the sleeves are sheer, exposing the short sleeve of the top worn underneath. I imagine the sheer sleeves won’t translate to ready-to-wear but I’d like to see the blazer-shirt take off. Bottega Veneta makes legendary leather goods as well, hence the upscale cases and man-bags toted on the runway.

Dries Van Noten, Prada… Labels I usually love, showing ugly things: sandals with socks (Dries Van Noten), ballet necklines and superfluous halter straps (Prada).

Vivienne Westwood really turned it out with her collection. Not every guy could pull off this piped-in-white jacket but it’s fantastic. I’m not a fan of knit polo/golf-style shirts with suits because it’s a slippery slope to unacceptable pairings, however this look makes it work.

A raglan sleeve extends to the neckline of a garment; most sleeves are set into the shoulder seam. Classic baseball T-shirts are a raglan style but this sleeve design can give great shape to dresses and blouses as well.

Dude. Seriously. You can create your own Chuck Taylors! Head on over to the Converse One website and trick out a pair. I am pondering a pair of the high hi-tops. A woman at school was wearing a pair of sequined Chucks. OMG.

I have a history with Chuck Taylors. When I was 10 years old I bought two pairs, one pink and one purple. Sometimes I wore one of each. In middle school I got a pair of hi-tops that were designed to fold down at the ankle but could be laced up the calf. In high school I went through a phase of not wearing leather (a genius idea in winter) and I had a pair of blue hi-top Chucks that I scribbled on. You know, anarchy symbols and Smiths lyrics about how meat is murder. Stuff like that.

Yay for Chuck Taylors. I am totally gonna get me some.

One of the most frequent questions I’m asked is “Can you make me a jacket?” (The No. 1 question I’m asked is “Are you going to be on Project Runway?”) Well, I can make me a jacket. But I don’t do menswear, sorry chaps.

Dress Monkey will make you the jacket — for less than $200. I don’t know how they do it, but here they are, selling custom sport coats and blazers on the internets, made to your specs. You can choose a style and then go through selecting fabrics or you can use their ideas. I like that you can chose which side you want the cellphone pocket placed. Neato.

I haven’t seen these jackets. A $150 blazer is not the same as a $1,000 custom job from a tailor you visit in person, who makes a jacket on you. I wonder who’s sewing them and and where and how their labor is so cheap (but the partner who lives in Shanghai leads me to believe the answer is China). I certainly can’t be making anyone a custom anything for less than $200; my hourly is more than $10/hour, not to mention materials and pattern-making and cutting and fitting. So this is low-end custom, the H&M of the made-to-order genre. I think most of my readers could use a new spiff coat. Somebody order one and tell me how it goes.

This Guy Friday is for Girl Fridays too. It’s about how to get the haircut you want.

Lots of guys shrug when it comes to their haircuts. Men either seem a bit put off by the entire process or super-vain and slicked-back. I believe there is a haircut for everyone. It’s a matter of knowing how to get the cut you want.

A few tips:

*Wear the clothes that best represent your style. The stylist is going to take visual clues to make an assessment about how to do your ‘do. If you wear a button-down and wing-tips most days, wear that to the salon. If nightlife is your thing, wear something flashy. You can also drop little hints as to what’s up, like “I’m newly single and want a change” or “I’m into figure skating and I’m straight.” That sort of thing.

*Bring a picture. It can be a photo of you on a good hair day or a picture of someone with a hair type similar to yours. If you are going bald don’t bring in a shot of George Clooney. If you have hair like Roseanne Roseannadanna (pictured above) don’t bring in a picture of Gwenyth Paltrow.

*Do your research. Ask your friends where they go, how much they pay, if there’s parking. Maybe you’d like to find a place that cuts on Sundays or is near your office. Yelp is a good resource.

*It’s best to find a good stylist and stick with if you like the results. I go to Cinta Salon (Grant @ Market streets, San Francisco) where you can book appointments online, hallelujah.

*For me it’s the second hair cut or highlight that’s the most telling. Can they maintain the original vision or are they a one-trick pony? If they did a crap job the first time you obviously don’t go back.

*Sometimes paying a little more is worth it; sometimes it is not. Big city dwellers can expect a good haircut at a salon to cost at least $50; there are probably barber shops out there for buzz cuts and a hot shave for less dough but I can’t guide you to one.

*If you’re uncomfortable, leave. Molly’s first rule of beauty, learned the hard way (aka bad eyebrow wax): If you think you aren’t communicating with someone, you’re right. Leave before you’ve got only half your hair.