platform shoe - A style of shoe featuring a thicker sole at the front; the heel is typically high to accommodate the higher height of the sole. Or maybe the sole is higher to accomodate a high heel.
What’s the one thing you wear every day and don’t consider often enough? Your jacket.
Too many people put too little thought into jackets and coats. Unless you live in a place where it is always warm, you should have a jacket for every season and every occasion. Outerwear is the first thing people will see; why own just one?
If you want bad service at an upscale restaurant, wear your Patagonia. I know it keeps you dry or warm or has a handy loop for your fishing license. But it is not a stylish garment. It distracts from anything cool you might be wearing. These jackets are best left for Desolation Wilderness or picking up a pizza during a monsoon, not a Fischerspooner show at the Fillmore (true story).
There are a lot of cool jackets out there. James Dean’s sleek red windbreaker is one iconic look worth copying, weather permitting. There are a lot of good vintage looks, but I’m growing skeptical of resale shops — at this point all the good stuff from the 1960s and ’70s has been sold, worn and sold again. The stuff is either worn out or embedded with someone’s b.o.
Once the weather turns chilly, a pea coat is a classic pick (see pic above). They work on most body types, and seriously — what do you have against navy blue (or the twist-on-a-classic black)? Nothing, I hope. Pea coats can be casual to kind-of dressy, great for everyday or dates.
Leather jackets are perfect for windy, blustery San Francisco. I’m not a big fan of the bomber jacket because I think they’re a bit tired and the elastic at the waist adds pounds around the middle. I prefer the slim shape of the faux motorcross style jackets or simple plain-front models. Some leathers have Thinsulate or other thermal lining. If you’re shopping for a raincoat you may find them too unsubstantial without such a lining unless you’re really into sweaters.
I’ve never met a shearling coat that I liked. I’m not sure exactly what but there is something unchic and lumpy about shearling. It’s a look that seems to endure in men’s outwear, so prove me wrong if you can.
I know I say this a lot, but don’t be cheap with something you’re going to wear every day. A good leather jacket will last for years and you can have it refurbished (re-dyed in light spots, new buttons sewn on, etc.) for about $50. A nice raincoat is practicaland chic. I have had some of my jackets and coats for years, bringing their price per wear (or price per season) down to nothing.
UPDATE: Next week’s Guy Friday will be all about raincoats. Thanks for dialing the request line, Ted.
Hey ladies. If you’re wearing a dark shirt, wear a dark brassiere underneath. You may not see the beige bra when you check the mirror, but it will make itself known with a camera flash. These days it seems like everyone has a camera (or cameraphone) and you never know when they’ll take your picture, it’s best to be prepared. I’m just saying.
Last week I ended the humiliating search for a new pair of jeans. I bought a sensible yet stylish pair that are affordable and comfortable. The first day I wore them my husband said “Heeeeey, nice butt” as I passed him in the hallway. Taking his pinch as a seal of approval, I threw away the receipt.
In the past my jeans were all custom-made at the Levi’s store downtown. One turn in the Star Trek laser-measuring booth and my stats were on file for future visits. Those jeans were the right length and the right fabric and they had a button fly per my instructions. I bought a pair of ready-to-wear at Levi’s this summer, but they are so low-cut that I can take them off without unzipping them — not to mention the coin-slot action (note to self: sit down, bend over and do yoga in the dressing room before buying clothes). I am still holding a grudge that they didn’t give me a heads-up that the custom line was being discontinued. Jerks.
The montage scene of my jeans-shopping experience would feature unknown brands with sticker-shock prices that look as though they are filthy; there’s weird embroidery on the pockets, the legs are tight and the rise is how-low-can-you-go. I started calling that yellow-dirty finish a shit stain rinse. I have no idea what the industry calls it (other than “gimmick”).
I have friends who have expensive denim fetishes and apparently they have found the right brand for their butt. My butt and my head just can’t take that kind of abuse. I’d rather spend that money on shoes.
(Headline borrowed from David Bowie)
What’s with all the short-sleeved dresses for fall and winter? I understand that some cocktail and evening gowns are more glamorous in abbreviated proportions. But this season’s everyday dresses seem to be short-sleeved. Yesterday every dress I liked in Hayes Valley had short sleeves. Last week I was down town and all the pretty print blouses and dresses were short sleeved. Even the tops paired with wool trousers had short sleeves. Will everyone be wearing arm warmers? Covering their cute tops with cardigans? Yo no comprende.
I wrote a column for the radio station. You know what I think you should do. (Read it, sillies.)
shawl collar - A one-piece collar that is turned down to form an elegant, continuous line around the back of the neck to the front of a garment. Shawl collars are used in a variety of garments, from evening gowns to cardigan sweaters. Pictured above is a dress from my favorite catalog read, J. Peterman.
There are topics in life that are more interesting than underthings. Perhaps that is why so many dudes let their drawers languish, nary a thought as to how they might look when undressed to reveal… snowflake boxer shorts with snow men printed all over them?
Boxer shorts aren’t as sexy as they used to be, back when your first stopped wearing those Fruit Of The Looms your mama bought you. Back then anything other than tightie whities seemed hot. But there’s a lot more out there than plaid boxers and white briefs.
Briefs are kind of good, don’t you think? There’s nothing wrong with black briefs, unless they’re stretched out or fraying or otherwise tore up. Do not even entertain the thought of white briefs (you know why). General rule: if the name printed on the waistband is stretched to a funny font, it’s time to go up a size or go on a diet.
A slightly more modern choice is boxer briefs, which employ the tightness of the brief and the length of a boxer. They are a fine choice if you’re of taller, long-legged stature. Otherwise they seem too modest and remind me of a man-girdle.
Trunks are short-legged and tight but not briefs. They are a straight-girl favorite (based on a non-scientific poll I conducted). You can’t go wrong here.
Boxer shorts do seem to work well on fuller figured guys who might like to be a bit covered up. And maybe you are just a boxers sort of guy, and that’s fine too. If you insist on wearing holiday boxer shorts, please pack them away with the jack-o-lanterns or tree ornaments so they are only worn at the appropriate time of year. And those Valentine boxer shorts from an old flame? Throw them away. Nothing says “gift from my ex” quite like novelty underwear.
Dear reader Laura left a comment asking for some advice. She posed such a good question that I replied in post-form.
Wedding dress codes are funny. Elegant semi-formal. Cocktail couture. Years ago I was invited to a wedding where guests were encouraged to wear Hawaiian shirts (I wore red leather pants and a polka dot top). Basically they all mean “Look good enough that we want to select pictures of you for our wedding album but not as good as the bride.” Dress codes are open to interpretation and personal style, so gussy up.
Since two dress codes are listed on Laura’s invitation, I think changing clothes is in order. The 9-hour time span between the start of the ceremony and the start of dinner is another indicator. For daytime, consider a little black dress (”formal attire, hats encouraged”) with a colorful wrap and a fun hat to offset any funeral/black doldrums vibe. For evening, fulfill the “formal with flair” portion of the dress code with the red dress. I think a knee-length dress should be fine for dinner, but I’ve never been to such an affair. At any rate, it sounds like quite a fete.
As for hosiery, if you’re willing to spend just a little more than average you have great options. One recent-ish style is the nude stocking with the rear seam. I love a rear seam, especially the nude stocking with a nude seam, or nude with a black or red seam. Cuban heel is another back seam style, but they’re tricky. I think you need mules or something to wear them. I haven’t worked them out with pumps.
I like fishnets, but they are a bit much for a Southern wedding. However, depending on your skin, you should check out flesh-tone fishnets. They are surprisingly flattering. One reason you want to pay a little more for stockings is the fit. You don’t want the ankles bagging or the knees losing shape. Cheap fishnets are legendary for such elephantine tendencies.
If you have money to spend, I love Wolford hosiery. And Macy’s has a fine hosiery department.
As for the hat, do it. Small handbags can be inexpensive and really round out an outfit. Sparkly pins work well with both little black dresses and as closures for wraps. May I suggest a garter flask?
pintuck - Narrow, sewn-down pleats, usually on the front of a garment.